The planned sleep in was bliss. Barb had a video call with family. We headed out 10am, beautiful weather. Ended up with a top of about 18 degrees today. There seemed to be showers around, we never felt a drop of rain but saw evidence of it. We circumnavigated the Baths of Caracalla built in 212, they are huge.

Not far from there we explored the Circus Maximus and crossed the Tiber River.

We were now in the charming area of the Trastevere, well loved by many. The gorgeous cobblestoned alleyways are enchanting.

It was nearing noon and we decided to stop for brunch. They had a deal, so we had arrabbiata, spicy pasta with wine- the bread and dip came with.

So across from us is this doorway with a group of people eagerly waiting outside. They all looked very keen to make sure they could go in but it was just a door. We were fascinated as to what was going on. Suddenly there was movement and a rush and most went inside.

It turns out that the Pope was most likely going to be there at lunch time, it is a place where they feed the poor. Only 30 ‘ordinary’ people can get tickets to be there. No wonder they all looked so eager! So Day 1 and an almost pope sighting.

Continuing we thought this church looked interesting and it was. Santa Maria.

Barb found the spot where she stayed last time, we went back over the river and through the little Christmas decorated streets. We were looking for Pompey’s Theatre  and walked around a lot, there were markets in the Campo de Fiori but we seemed to be going in circles. Just when we had given up and decided to get a taxi, there it was. The old Senate house site. The pine tree at the back left of the photo is the spot where Julius Caesar was assassinated. This was the Roman senate house in 44BC due to the normal one burning down. Now we were truly exhausted and got a taxi back to our digs. It so happens that the way there took us past many important sites such as the forum and colosseum, so Terry got his first glimpses.
A nice rest after so much walking today. About 7pm we headed out to find a dinner venue. The weather is perfect, clear and mild.  528 Cucina el Mescele looked nice, we managed to snag a table as long as we didn’t stay too long. It is Saturday night after all. Well what a great choice it was. 😁
Totally against local custom, we ordered 2 meat dishes and a salad to share. Duck with leek and pork fillet with chickory plus a seasonal salad. Sensational. Sorry, my photo was too blurry to use. On a roll we went with pistachio cheesecake, ‘chocolate creamy’ – yes that is what the menu said. Plus a Frangelico each to accompany.

Indulgent but it seemed fitting. We strolled home feeling very satisfied.
Will sleep well tonight.

Our last wake up call for a while. We packed, went down for breakfast and said good bye to the Divani Palace Acropolis. A smooth taxi ride to the airport. We were early, a lot of sitting around and watching the poor trapped sparrow in the terminal.

12 pm, a 2 hour Alitalia flight to Rome, we arrived at 1pm. Being all within the EU we did not even have to show passports when we arrived. We were approached by a well dressed man who took us in his lovely Mercedes. We were worried it was a scam but on researching we probably spent just a few extra euro to arrive in style in a pseudo cab.

We greeted by our air BNBs hosts mother (to Barb’s disappointment after seeing his profile photo). We could barely both fit in the tiny lift with our suitcases but managed. The place is fabulous, so spacious. Large balcony and to unpack into drawers and cupboards is sublime.

We went for a wander around the neighbourhood, very nice. Lots of restaurants, hairdressers and various other shops. Eventually we found the 24 hour supermarket for supplies. When we got back to our place we had a little Aperol spritz party with some Italian ( and olives bought in Greece) delicacies. We also set up the  Netflix. It was so nice to really relax this way after the hectic pace of the tour.

We watched a few episodes of The Crown season 3, which we had planned to watch. Then we headed out to dinner. We found a lovely family run restaurant just down the street. It had pictures of them with famous people on the wall but they were all Europeans so except for Andy Thomas the Australian astronaut, we did not recognise any of them. We shared all our dinner. On the menu was carbonara pasta – each tiny piece of bacon had exquisite flavour, and meatballs in tomato sauce. Great home cooked food. Feeling like celebrating, we also had. The trio dessert- panacotta, mousse and tiramisu. We also got a vanilla ice cream with liqueur. What ever it was that was poured over it was rocket fuel and not overly pleasant.

One more episode of The Crown when we got home and then bed.

This was the first morning we were both woken by our wake up call, so it was a rush to shower and pack and get bags out in 30 minutes, but we did it. The travel jug has been a godsend for morning coffee as no tea/coffee facilities are provided in the rooms. A fabulous spinach pie was a great addition to breakfast and we both snagged some extras for the stray cats and dogs we will inevitably meet today.

8.30 on the bus. It. Is. Cold. About 3 degrees but not raining. Making our way up the Meteora area is surreal. The autumnal colours of the trees coupled with these unbelievably impressive rock formations, add monasteries sitting on top of some of these monoliths, makes for one of life’s most memorable experiences.

Get thee to a nunnery! Our first monastery was dedicated to Saint Barbara- how convenient. Her name’s day was yesterday. It was 140 stairs to get up there,  with the mist and cold the hand rails were welcome but freezing. We also had to walk across little bridges. Scary. So high, such an incredulous experience. Yet still stray animals around even at these heights. The women had to tie skirts around their pants but men in long trousers was of course fine. This area apparently inspired the Eyrie on Game of Thrones, and eerily the balcony sloped downwards. The nuns produce, honey, wine, and other delicacies.
There are 6 monasteries still running, many closed due to the increases in tourism and one of them was used in the Bond movie For Your Eyes Only.  The second monastery was St Stephen’s, a much bigger place and no stairs to enter. The chapels in both places were like small scale Sistine Chapels, all expertly painted and in the second monastery we actually got to see the artist at work as the chapel is yet to be finished. In the first chapel the decorations are 500 years old.

The views from the balcony here gave excellent views of the town below. Barb was lucky enough to have broken away from the group to get these shots before the weather moved back in.

So nice to get back on the warm bus, we were quickly back to sea level and the rest of the day was basically bus travel. Lunch was in a big highway stop, unimpressive food but these little mouths were fed with leftovers. They had 2 more siblings we met later, Greece seriously needs a better desexing program.

Lots more hours on the bus, we arrived back in Athens close to 6pm. Same hotel as before it is comfortable to go back to familiar territory. There was a farewell dinner at 7pm, with much repacking to do and some organisation that could only be done now wth decent wifi, we made an executive decision to stay in. Quick supermarket stop for supplies and a wonderful feeling of calm to have this time to relax and organise for our relocation to Rome tomorrow. Greece you have enlightened us both to your many hidden gems. Would love to be back! Efharisto. ❤️

We woke up high up near Mt Parnossos, near Delphi. It was still pitch dark and quiet but then unfortunately rain. We have been so lucky so far with the weather. Breakfast in the cosy restaurant and then on the bus at 8.45. It is about 7 degrees but warmed up to a balmy 12 by lunchtime.

To begin the museum of Delphi. We all needed our wet weather gear just to get inside. We got to see lots of amazing treasures from the most important site in Greek antiquity, the Oracle of Delphi. Lots of unique treasures from the site and lots of interesting stories from mythology from our guide. The crossovers between ancient Rome, Egypt and Greece are becoming more prevalent as we learn more.

The first statue below was imposing, but then the 2 after that join up, base and the dancers on top. It is also a classical composition by Debussey. The Dancers of Delphi.

This copper statue of Apollo has eyes made of stones and metal eyelashes.

Many of us ventured outside in the wind and rain to traverse the site of Delphi. Getting decent photos was very hard in this weather. Once we got to the wet slippery stairs, Barb bailed and went to feed this stray dog with some ‘borrowed’ meat and eggs from breakfast. This was clearly appreciated.

Terry and some of the group bravely forged their way up the hill in the inclement weather and got to see much of the site. A Roman theatre and some of the temples.

The bus then meandered back down the windy roads until we came to the seaside town of Itea. On the way we had to stop for this procession of goats.  The rain has cleared. The taverna greeted us with a shot of ouzo. There are many non drinkers in the group so some of our table ended up with a few extras. We shared a Greek Salad and some lightly battered prawns, squid, mussels and anchovies. Very nice. Our tour guide also gave us traditional bitter orange dipped in chocolate to try for dessert.

Back to the bus and over very high mountains, a foggy cold afternoon, we are almost in the clouds. Barb was asked to give a little talk to the bus about the Persian Wars before we reached the site of the Battle of Thermopylae.This is what the movie ‘300’ is all about and is a pinnacle event in ancient history. Seeing this area and getting photos of King Leonidas’ butt are some serious life goals for Barb.

We arrived at the Hotel Amalia about 5.30. It is cold outside. The hotel is huge, on 3 floors with massive foyers, bars, and even our room is very big with an extra bed. We are not high up but near a mountainous area, so the wifi is atrocious. The included dinner was 4 courses. Mushroom soup, spinach pie, Greek salad, beef and rice then a fancy looking sorta white and dark chocolate mousse in a champagne glass. Was all very nice and we got to hear all about Hong Kong politics from our dining companions. Full and tired and with no TV or wifi we went to bed soon after.

We woke up to drizzling rain but it thankfully cleared by the time we received Olympia. Breakfast highlights included cheese pies, spinach pies, fresh Nutella filled donuts and halva. Lucky this tour is only a week! The view from the front of the hotel was amazing as well.

We met our entertaining local guide at the Olympia Museum. All original stuff here. Great statues, the one below is of Nike. Under that are 2 relics from the Persian Wars. The helmet was worn by Miltiades, who ran the first Marathon from Athens to Sparta, and back in 490BC.

The group then headed over to the archaeological site of Olympia. It is not known when the first olympics occurred but the first recorded one was in 776BC. It is a large complex that includes temples to Zeus and Hera as well as baths, training areas and statues of victors.

The image below shows the spot where the Olympic flame is lit every 2 years- summer, then Winter Olympics. This only began in 1936 for the Berlin Olympics.

 

The stadium had up to 45,000 spectators who sat on the grass. The tunnel was covered so that the athletes ran out from the dark passageway.

Most importantly, this is our site guide for today, Zeus.

We had a visit to a local shop where we got to taste pistachio butter and various other things. Lots of souvenirs and fridge magnets. Then we went to this taverna which had well appointed design features inside and out.

A long drive up the coast we drove past the 3rd largest city in Greece, Patras and then crossed from the Peloponnese to the mainland via the Rio-Antirrio bridge, the longest full suspension bridge in the world. The first photo is from the internet.

Not far away we stopped off at another seaside Venetian town, Nafpaktos. The photos speak for themselves. A stunningly beautiful place.

We drove on for over another 90 minutes, up incredibly high mountain roads until we arrived at our destination- Delphi. It was just getting dark when we checked into our hotel. This town is so high up but our views from our balcony are magnificent, so we sat there for an aperitif but it was quite chilly. We went for a wander to find dinner and couldn’t find anything suitable so we went back to our hotel. We got fish and chips in the restaurant and it was surprisingly great. Excellent homemade tartare sauce, big pieces of fresh fish in light batter and rustic crunchy chips.

All of the TV is in Greek except for BBC news which was all about Trump so we hooked up the laptop to the TV and watched some Netflix.

p.s. I spent actual hours in the last few days trying to upload a few photos to finish this post but the poor wifi did not allow it. Finally done!

 

 

 

No wake up call till 7am today, luxury. Another buffet breakfast with many options. Sour cherry juice, sliced yummy sausages and savoury cheese pie were noted new additions today, and hot as opposed to lukewarm coffee. 8.30 am on the bus and a short ride to Mycenae. The world’s largest beehive tomb, also known as Agamemnon’s Tomb we visited first. Dating back as far as 1350BC, we are really delving into ancient times here.

Hera the local guide, led the way up the hill to the main site of the city of Mycenae.
Hera showed us into the museum where we saw well known artefacts such as Agamemnon’s Death Mask, this is a copy and there is no proof it is actually his, but every archaeologist wants to think their find is the most important.

Many famous archaeological finds within this site including the Lion Gate. This dates to 1250bc as does the citadel and acropolis. Hera again showed us the way. You can see Hera here guiding us up the hill in the first photo. The Lion Gate is very famous and also dates to around 1250bc as does the citadel and acropolis.

Other places of immense interest here are Grave Circle A and Grave Circle B.  They are tombs of the Mycenaean royal families as old as 16 century BC.

The views from the citadel were phenomenal and the air so clean. We could see all the way back to Napflio and the surrounding mountains and countryside were tranquil and quite splendid.

Our next visit was a very quirky artisan residence. Pottery was their main business but this guy was a big time hoarder and a talented artist. They had so much cool stuff around. I loved their Trojan Horse. We were given a pottery demonstration and the opportunity to buy exquisite pieces at extravagant prices. Some local wine and ouzo was also on sale and well, it would have been plain rude not to buy some after sampling.

Off to a taverna for lunch, nothing flash but good honest food, half a plate of slow cooked lamb for me and moussaka for Terry. Then a long afternoon drive to Olympia. Barb was trying to bribe the driver Costa to take the Sparti turn but alas no. A really enjoyable drive, the mountains are so tall, good highways and tunnels. When we got into the small country roads some of the houses especially are so darn cute and inviting! Our bus driver is amazing too, some of the pokey roads and hairpin turns he has to manoeuvre in a huge coach, must be tough.

We arrived in Olympia mid afternoon. Two words, rustic charm. Olive trees everywhere, narrow streets, chickens, vineyards. Incredible views as we are quite high up. These photos are from our balcony.

Our first bit of rain, well drizzle this evening. The bus took us to Magna Graecia. An olive and wine farm that has been operating for 4 generations. We were greeted with a glass of their white wine plus feta and olive dip on bread. We had an interesting demonstration on the production of olives and got to taste 8 olive oils, onion jam and pepper jam with bread. The olive tree in the photo is 1000 years old!😱

There was some(well lots really) suggestive selling of their many products, jewellery, art….all bloody expensive. The wine and olives however were reasonably priced and thus purchased. Dinner  was a number of appetisers, Greek salad, dips, olive paste etc. we were a bit full after tasting all the bread, which was fortunate because the main course, a pork or chicken stew baked in paper was very dry and unappetising. Their very decent red wine was free with dinner, and a shot of grappa. The Greek dancing demonstration started afterwards and  yep they started trying to get us to join in. We both politely declined.
The bus took us back to the hotel. A nightcap of our first ouzo in Greece and then a good nights sleep in the cooler mountain air. Opa!

Another early start as we had to have bags out 7am. Breakfast and then the bus began our departure from Athens. Have loved our time there but it is exciting to move on. The air got clearer as we moved away from the city and the morning light really accentuated the countryside. Stop one was Corinth Canal, not often used by ships anymore. The green water was almost phosphorescent. Morning tea stop and they had pornographic fridge magnets, Barb took the high ground and did not purchase one, such moral stature may not be so easy if that happens again!

Onward to the ancient city of Corinth which unsurprisingly is where all things Corinthian comes from. The ruins were very interesting, the Temple of Apollo stood out amount the surrounding ancient and rural landscape. Beautiful views and fascinating ruins.

This marble column is where Saint Peter was flogged. We went through the small museum which had great Greek and Roman artefacts.

There are stray dogs and cats every where. They are well looked after and Greece is trying to get them all desexed and they are often looked after by locals. Most look healthy and are very friendly. So few people especially in cities live in units so they can’t really have an adoption program as such, but I digress. After an hour and a bits drive through more lovely countryside we stopped near Epidaurus for lunch. A Taverna where we all had to go into the kitchen to see what was on offer before sitting down. Terry had lamb and pasta and I had Chicken Souvlaki and fries, both with Greek salads for entrees of course. This place makes their own olive oil and were  beginning the process while we were there. Huge bowls and buckets of olives coming in. The site of ancient Epidaurus followed. Museum first, a very well preserved Corinthian column, plus lots at other antiquities. Then the theatre which is the best preserved in Greece. The acoustics were incredible but you will get in trouble if you sing. Yelling ‘ni’ was ok.

Thirty minutes drive and we were in Napflio. What a find this place is! The foreboding fort above the town is very Game of Thrones. It is a Venetian town, quite a resort place, so picturesque. Lots of restaurants along the waterfront. Some cool rustic houses. Lovely cobblestoned alleyways. Could easily settle in here for a few days. Unfortunately there was a fire across the bay, so it was quite smoky.

FYI the bus has wifi(weak) and USB chargers at the seats. Anyway, the bus took us to our hotel which is quite fancy, we have balconies and a water view. A buffet dinner which was ridiculous in its range of options and the amount of food that was there. …and finally Baklava!!! And other desserts too, so bad, but so good. Back to room and to bed.

A beautiful sunrise to start the day. We were up very early. First day of the tour and we were ready an hour earlier than we needed to be. We have both got rather adventurous with our breakfast choices which can include a combination of the following fruit, yoghurt, eggs, cheeses, olives, tomatoes, mushrooms, bacon. Combined with freshly baked croissants, apple cake, mini spinach pies, custard pie etc. On the bus at 8am. A big 50 seater coach for 20 people, bliss. We had a bit of a tour around the city and got to see the Olympic Stadium from 1896, Royal and Parliamentary buildings and the strange antics of the Presidential Guards which were reminiscent of Monty Python’s Ministry of Silly Walks.

Next stop. The  Acropolis. This is a massive site. Lots of marble to walk on and lots of stairs and gravel. Thankfully it was not wet or crowded. It is of course phenomenal. The views are amazing. The Acropolis is the name for the hill which is essentially a sanctuary and defensive area. The main temples, the most famous being of course the Parthenon is being restored at present is majestic and it’s hard to believe you are actually gazing upon this famous icon. The stories of Lord Elgin stealing some marbles and selling to the British were prominent and we certainly became converts that they should be returned to Greece. The picture of the hill is Mt Lybecattus  where we were the other day, we wished we had got a picture of it and it followed us everywhere today.

It must have been so incredible when these sites were complete and in their prime. It was a tough climb up and down but totally worth it. Next activity was a visit to the Acropolis Museum. A very well set up place and the glass floors were a bit freaky at times, especially at the top floor where you could see right down to the ancient ruins below the building. The women in the  Erechthieon below are fake, the real ones are in the museum but one was nicked by Lord Elgin.

A lovely lunch break nearby. We had a beef, tomato, cheese stew and a kinds of  3 meat sausage with tomato yoghurt sauce.

Back to the hotel for an extremely brief 15 min rest. Back on the bus and we made our way down the ‘Greek Riviera’. The light was no good for photos but it was like a Greek Gold Coast, beaches and seafood restaurants and beaches one sides, hotels and rentals on the other. A windy road through some cool rock cut tunnels we made our destination Cape Sounion. There is a large Temple of Apollo and great views out to the Greek islands. This is also where King Aegeas hurled himself off the cliff, when he thought his son had been eaten by the Minotaur in Crete- hence the Aegean Sea.

We drove back as the sun set. Too hard to get good photos but the sunset was incredible. You hear people say particular places have awesome sunsets but it’s not till you see one that it becomes clear. As the sun went behind the mountains it was pretty but it was after that that the sky lit up first orange and then a luminescent red that was painted across the sky. It was a sight for poets, ah which reminds me. Lord Byron the famous poet was a graffiti artist, and Ravel the composer too. Both carved their names into the temple at the cape, it’s hard to make out. Just above the second line.

 

Back to the hotel about 6. We repacked our bags in preparation for tomorrow’s departure. About 7 we headed back to our friends at El Greco Restaurant, Olga the owner greeted me with a big hug.  We dined on Greek salad, grilled prawns and pork in a lemony, salty sauce. At both lunch and dinner today we received a free dessert; yogurt with honey and the same later but with stewed dates. Home for an early night.

 

 

 

 

After breakfast we were picked up by our new private taxi driver ( from yesterday) who drove us down to the bustling port of Piraeus, boats of many sizes going  to Greek islands everywhere.

The last boat pictured was our ‘Flying Dolphin’ which swiftly took us to the pretty and charming island of Aegina. The harbour was most welcoming and we began to walk along the waterfront and enjoy the vistas.

We turned up into the village and wandered through the quaint narrow alleyways, whilst simultaneously avoiding being run over by the many scooters and cars. The fort below is hundreds of years old.

We continued back around to the harbour and found Taverna Kavourna away from the main drag just waiting for us to arrive. What a wonderful afternoon eating Greek appetisers, sipping on beer and watching the ferries, hydrofoils and traffic go by. We ate fried anchovies, baked feta, giant beans in tomato sauce and fried cheese. Simple and amazing food and we learnt from last night. Do not touch the bread until after the food arrives, if at all.

The island is famous for pistachios, so had to buy some on the way back to ferry. We got front row seats and it was awesome to sail into Athens and see the whole city from another perspective. Barb was pondering her Ancient Greek battle stories as well, excited to see the site of the Battle of Salamis from 479 BC.

A taxi was waiting and we felt like we were in a Herbie movie, or a rally race as we were sped to our hotel. Arrived safely and waited around for a pre- tour meeting at 7 pm.
The good news is that there are only 20 in our tour group. Quite an eclectic mix. A few aussies, Malaysians, Singaporeans, Phillipinos and 2 Americans. We had a welcome drink and an ok dinner. Greek salad and then chicken smothered in BBQ sauce, well we have been spoilt food wise. Everyone seems nice. Back to the hotel room, we have to be up early tomorrow to start the tour.

 

After days of travelling we had a bit of a sleep in and ate breakfast in the hotel. Nice range of food western stuff plus Greek cheeses, pastries etc. Barb realised much to her dismay that she had left her charger and travel adapter in Dubai, DOH. So first port of call was to find an electronics shop, which we did. Under the hotel is Thermistocles wall- as you do..

We wondered parts of the charming Plaka area, saw Hadrian’s Arch and the Temple of Olympian Zeus. Then we ambled through the National Garden. there are lots of very healthy looking stray cats around. The locals are also very friendly and helpful.

We didn’t really have a clear plan so we kept wandering the streets. However, Mt Lycabettus kept looming and beckoning so after a quick cold drink in a charming alleyway of cafes we started walking up, and up, then stairs and rough paths. Barb declared it Mt Doom by this stage and despite many extremely helpful locals, the funicular to the top remained elusive. Then finally it appeared and we went up to the top. There is a church up there and as you can see, the views are incredible and the sprawl of Athens reveals itself in all its glory.
It was very nice up there so we stayed for lunch. Terry was so impressed he suggested a photo of him with his beer. Clearly I chose the better lunch IMO. Squid with fava bean purée.

The funicular ride was quite the experience. We wanted a taxi when we got back down and happened upon the best taxi driver in Athens, he was quite the tour guide as he drove us for a long time; for 7 euros! Barb continuing in her new career in carelessness left her backpack in the cab. He delivered it back to the hotel, lucky we took his card. We have booked him for tomorrow. A chill out for the rest of the arvo as we still work off our jet lag.

El Greco was our choice of restaurant for dinner and OMG, we were the only people there. The bread and dip we did not order but ate lots of – rookie mistake. Greek salad, that feta mmmm.  Then the seafood for 2, should have been for 4. The white serviette had to be waved early. Delicious. Cheap house wine was great. Amazing, the woman brought us a desert we did not ask for and couldn’t eat.  Exactly what we wanted. Food comas all round. Zzzzz.