We had our big day trip to Herculaneum all planned…. or so we thought….
Up and out the door early we got a taxi to the Termini Central Station ( Barb’s first visit there since here the 2006 mugging but this time we are prepared and aware). A concierge helped us buy our fast train tickets to Naples. Wow they are expensive though – 80 euro each, yikes! (129 Aussie dollars) It is however, a fabulous train. We are in a roomy comfort car, the train travels at 300 km, we get wonderful views of the Italian countryside and arrive incident free over an hour later.
We buy our tickets to Ercolano all by ourselves using the machine. We are nailing this public transport thing…or so we thought…
The next train doesn’t leave for 45 mins, so we grab a late Roman breakfast. Barb has a wonderful Sfogliatella with a tasty but almost cold coffee and Terry had chocolate and pistachio butter filled pastry. It took a bit of a walk to find where our train line was and many train personnel helped us along the way but gave us strange looks when we showed them our tickets to Porti Ercolano. We board our train and after a few stations we realise we have missed our stop. There was no sign that we saw. We get off at Torre El Greco and decide to grab a cab. We walk around but we are in hicksville, as you can see from this photo, possibly in South America.
We go back to the station and catch the train back one stop to Porti Ercolano. You have to actually walk across the tracks to get out of the station. So we are here…or so we thought…
We asked some locals who quickly told us that the Scavi was very far away. Luckily we saw a cab. It was a van but the sliding door didn’t work, so he opened the passenger door with a large rope that he used to open and close it.  10 mins later and Hurrah!! We have found Herculaneum. Often called ‘The Other Pompeii’, but in my opinion better. It is smaller, easier to get a great sense of from above, covered in a much more impressive 20m of molten rock and not crowded. If fact much of the time we were the only ones in each building.
We began by walking through the rock tunnels down to the boat sheds where they now have the skeleton displays. This was the beach front in 79AD. These are fake, the real ones found in 1981 are housed elsewhere.




The Villa of the Cervi is very impressive, it has been done up a lot since Barb was here nearly 7 years ago. These are the houses Romans lived in, we are walking on their mosaic or marble floors, looking at their frescos and statues, including everyone’s favourite, drunk Hercules.  It is amazing.
One of the other points of difference with Herculaneum is that the upper stories survived on some buildings and they have lots of carbonised wood that survived as it was sort of cooked by the large amount of lava.
The next house. Casa di Bicenteniaro has only been recently reopened to the public after being closed for 36 years. This is exciting and we had to put on shoe protectors to enter.
Another highlight is this room in another house. The Neptune and Aphrodite mosaic is awesome!

It rained quite heavily but only for about 10 minutes and just as we were ready to leave anyway. You could not see Mt Vesuvius from the town while we were there as it was shrouded in clouds. A little piece of suburban Ancient Rome, this was more of a resort type town as opposed to Pompeii which was a bustling commercial area. A fantastic ancient site, was so worth the effort and troubles of getting here. The Ercolano Scavi train station ( where we should have arrived) is just up the road and getting home will be easy…or so we thought….
We were getting very tired by now, we walked up the big hill to the station and bought our tickets. We had to stand for a long time waiting for the train and our legs were dying to sit down. Unfortunately the train back to Napoli was very crowded so we had to remain standing. Heaps of people got off on the second last station and we assumed the last station would be where we had to alight. So we stayed on till the last stop and when we asked where the fast train is, it was one station back. 🤬🤬
We were quickly directed to a train but the doors wouldn’t open, before we realised the back half of the train pulled away from the station. The old ‘2 trains on one platform trick’ we should have kept walking down the platform. So a station employee directs us to another train. (The Italians are so helpful, really, everywhere we go they are happy to assist us idiot tourists- we really are feeling pretty damn stupid by now).
We are wise to the two train thing now and head down the platform and stand on the train. The train keeps starting and then stopping, the lights go on and then off. We don’t sit because we are only going one station. The Italians all sit, so people keep thinking we aren’t sure which train we are on and keep asking us questions which we don’t understand . Finally after 20 mins or so the train goes back to the Garibaldi station. We quite easily change our fast train ticket (we have missed the one we were meant to get). We had to run to get the train, we are in the very last seats in the last carriage. Sitting down after all this time is most welcome. We get back in the dark. Exhausted and very hungry – those pastries were all we had had all day.
A taxi home and this was a good opportunity to use up some supplies. An Aperol Spritz jug and antipasto platter on the couch made for a perfect evening in.
This was a long post, it was a long day. We survived and will laugh about this for many years.